Introduction to Shiga Prefecture
Shiga Prefecture, situated in the heart of the Kansai region, holds a unique distinction in Japan: it is home to Lake Biwa, the country’s largest and one of the world’s oldest lakes, which occupies approximately one-sixth of the prefecture’s total area. This extraordinary body of water has shaped Shiga’s culture, economy, and identity for thousands of years, drawing pilgrims, fishermen, artists, and warriors to its shores since ancient times.
Surrounding the lake is a landscape of remarkable historical density — feudal castles, ancient Buddhist temples, traditional merchant towns, and one of the world’s most celebrated private art museums, all within easy reach of Kyoto and Osaka yet somehow far less visited than those iconic destinations.
Lake Biwa: Japan’s Ancient Inland Sea
Lake Biwa is not merely large — at 670 square kilometers, it dwarfs every other lake in Japan — it is also ancient, dating back approximately 4 million years, making it one of the world’s oldest lakes and a UNESCO Global Geopark. Its great age has allowed it to develop unique endemic species found nowhere else on Earth, including several types of fish and freshwater creatures that have evolved in isolation over millions of years.
The lake’s cultural significance is equally profound. It lies at the heart of the Omi Province, one of the most important regions of ancient Japan, and its shores are dotted with historical sites spanning every era of Japanese history. Omi merchants (Omi shonin), who operated from the towns around Lake Biwa’s shores, were among the most influential traders in Japanese history, their commercial networks extending across the entire country.
Today, Lake Biwa is a center of outdoor recreation. Cycling around its perimeter on the Biwako Cycling Road (totaling over 190 kilometers) is a popular challenge for cyclists. Sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, and bass fishing attract outdoor enthusiasts year-round. The lake’s shores offer excellent viewpoints for sunrise and sunset, particularly from the eastern shore with the mountains of Shiga reflected in the still water.
Hikone Castle: One of Japan’s Original Fortresses
Hikone Castle, completed in 1622, is one of Japan’s twelve original castles — structures that have survived intact from the feudal era without reconstruction. Designated a National Treasure, the castle stands on a hill above the city of Hikone and commands sweeping views over Lake Biwa and the surrounding mountains.
The castle’s three-story keep is compact by the standards of great Japanese castles but exquisitely proportioned, with an elegant roofline and white plaster walls that make it exceptionally photogenic. The castle gardens, Genkyu-en, are modeled after the famous Kenroku-en Garden in Kanazawa and provide a beautiful foreground for photographs of the castle against the mountains beyond.
The city of Hikone itself is a pleasant historic town worth exploring, with preserved samurai and merchant districts radiating from the castle grounds. The local mascot character Hikonyan, a white cat wearing a samurai helmet, has become one of Japan’s most beloved character mascots and is frequently encountered at the castle entrance.
Miho Museum: A Hidden Architectural Gem
The Miho Museum is one of the most extraordinary art museums in Japan, both for its remarkable collection and its equally remarkable setting. Designed by the celebrated architect I.M. Pei and opened in 1997, the museum is built almost entirely underground into a mountain ridge in the hills of southern Shiga, reachable by a tunnel and a graceful suspension bridge.
The approach to the museum, through cherry and plum blossoms in spring or brilliant foliage in autumn, inspired Pei to invoke the concept of Tao Yuanming’s “Peach Blossom Spring” — a hidden paradise reached through an unexpected tunnel. The building’s glass and stainless steel roof floats above the landscape like a jewel, while the galleries below house one of the finest private collections of ancient art in Asia.
The collection spans ancient Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Persian, South Asian, Chinese, and Japanese art, assembled by founder Mihoko Koyama with extraordinary taste and resources. Highlights include ancient silver vessels from the Near East, Tang dynasty gold and silver work, and exceptional Japanese lacquerware and paintings. The combination of the architectural experience and the artistic collection makes Miho one of Japan’s most memorable cultural destinations.
Omihachiman: The Merchant Town by the Lake
Omihachiman, situated on the eastern shore of Lake Biwa, is one of the best-preserved merchant towns in Japan and an excellent example of the commercial culture that developed around the lake’s shores during the Edo period. The town grew wealthy from the famous Omi merchants and their far-reaching trade networks, and the prosperity of that era is still visible in the streets of the Hachiman-Bori canal district.
The canal, lined with weeping willows and traditional merchant houses, is the town’s most photogenic feature. Small boats carry passengers along the willow-lined waterway, offering a leisurely perspective on the historic district from the water. The surrounding streets preserve dozens of traditional merchant residences, several of which have been converted into cafes, craft shops, and galleries.
The town is also associated with the missionary William Merrell Vories, who arrived in 1905 and spent decades designing buildings, establishing schools, and contributing to the community. His architectural legacy, including the Omi Brotherhood buildings, adds an unexpected Western architectural thread to the town’s cultural fabric.
Ancient Temples and Shrines of Shiga
Shiga’s long history has left an extraordinary concentration of ancient religious sites throughout the prefecture. Hiyoshi Taisha, at the foot of Mt. Hiei on the western shore of the lake, is one of Japan’s oldest shrines and the head shrine of the Hie Shrine network that includes Tokyo’s famous Hie Shrine. Ishiyama-dera Temple, where the novelist Murasaki Shikibu is said to have begun writing The Tale of Genji, sits dramatically on rocky outcroppings beside the Seta River.
Getting to Shiga
Shiga’s location between Kyoto and Nagoya makes it extremely convenient to visit. Hikone is just 45 minutes from Kyoto by JR special rapid train. Omihachiman is 30 minutes from Kyoto. The Miho Museum requires a bus connection from Ishiyama Station, which is 10 minutes from Kyoto. Most of Shiga’s attractions can be visited as day trips from Kyoto or Osaka, though staying overnight by the lake is recommended for the full experience.
Where to Stay in Shiga
Traditional ryokan on the shores of Lake Biwa offer an immersive experience with fresh lake fish cuisine. Hikone and Omihachiman have machiya (townhouse) guesthouses in their historic districts. Modern hotels are available near major stations.
Final Thoughts
Shiga Prefecture, with its ancient lake, feudal castles, world-class museum, and historic merchant towns, offers an exceptionally rich travel experience within easy reach of Kyoto and Osaka. Its relative obscurity among international travelers is Shiga’s greatest gift to those who take the time to explore it — a Japan of depth, authenticity, and quiet beauty that reward slow, curious travel.